August 16th, 2010
Santorini
We arrived at Tony’s Villa in Santorini after a 7 hour ferry from Piraeus port in Athens. Our first of many ferry rides to come over the next four weeks, and a 7 hour embarkment in which I discovered that despite my love for boats and the open seas I am not immune to the rocking of large vessels amidst waves, commonly referred to as motion sickness. This still does not deter from the pleasure I derive in the aesthetics of starry skies in the middle of the Mediterranean.
The booking of Tony’s was based on decent reviews and a pool, which it turned out was boarded up. No pool was a deal breaker, and the condition of the hotel did not compensate for the pools unexpected nonexistence. Which is why I was woken up at 8am after a mere 3 hours of sleep on a mattress that was as comfortable as reclining on a wooden plank. “We’re leaving. Hurry, I found a place down the road, the best.”
Delirious from lack of sleep and still a bit woozy from the ferry I asked no questions and zipped my oversized duffel back up and followed Nicole into the early morning…in my pajamas. We dragged our luggage about half a mile down a dirt road, all the while with the notion that we were leaving this seemingly deplorable hotel for “the best.”
Nicole claimed to have found what would be the savior of our stay in Santorini, a new hotel equipped with a pool and decent room accommodations. We took her word for it and waited outside the reception area, Natassia and I still trying to grasp exactly what was going on, putting full faith that Nicole would not steer us wrong and had dragged us from Tony’s for a much-needed upgrade. The grounds of the new hotel appeared to be a relatively good sign in the right direction and as we waited for our room key we figured it was the right move. Until we were led to our new room. I dragged my luggage to the foot of a set of stairs leading into a basement. Blankly I stared down the flight of steps, thinking maybe I was hallucinating as I watched the lady walk down beckoning for us to follow. First and foremost, I was in no state to maneuver my 50lb duffel bag down 15 concrete steps. Second of all, it’s a basement. Tony’s might have been lacking a pool, but at least I could open the windows and stare out onto a veranda, and in case of a fire or emergency, there were two escape routes. Unless I could chew through stucco walls, if there was a fire, we were dead.
When in Greece, optimism is a necessity. Maybe the room won’t be so bad. Maybe opening the door will be like stepping into Narnia, through the basic and dull appearance of a wardrobe will lie beauty and mysticism.
No such luck. In this case, judging a book by its cover would not lead to false assumptions. It was a dank, dark, dreary dungeon. A room which sucked out all forms of light and any reminder that you were on a Greek island. Stucco walls, one large wooden wardrobe and two steps leading to the bathroom. But hey, it’s got a pool. The lady smiled and told us to enjoy and let herself out, leaving the three of us alone in bewilderment. Natassia and I looked over at Nicole who looked apologetic and hopeful at the same time. “It’s not so bad, right?’
“I thought you said we were going to ‘the best?'” Natassia asked, still looking as though she could not come to terms with what was going on, that our new room was now a basement in the maid quarters.
“It is, look,” Nicole responded as she handed us over a business card. There it was, in big red bold lettering, “The BEST!!!” (No really, the three exclamation points were part of the name, I don’t just have a terrible grasp of grammar).
At this point the three of us break into hysterics, nothing like a little irony to start your morning off. Natassia began a room inspection, which more or less consisted of the bathroom, the room was a ‘what you see is what you get’ to the fullest. She walked in, walked out, shut the door behind her and stood on the step looking at the two of us utterly confused. Instantly I began to smirk, I knew whatever was behind that door was going to be the icing on the cake. Without even asking I got up and opened the door, expecting to find just about anything, from a teeny tiny shower to a little Nome taking a piss in the sink (sleep deprivation can really do a number on the imagination). Okay, no Nome, no real surprise there, but also no teeny tiny shower. Actually, no shower at all. Just a narrow long room with a toilet in the left corner and sink in the right corner. I stared at the toilet, then turned and stared at the sink. I must have been standing there for several moments because next thing I knew Nicole was standing behind me, horrified, asking where the hell the shower was. I looked down at the floor and noticed a drain at the exact half way point between the sink and toilet. My gaze slowly drifted toward the sink as I envisioned myself trying to contort my body so that I could get all of the necessary body parts under the faucet. And that’s when I spotted the shower hose hanging off the back of the sink. I didn’t know how to explain it with words, so instead I thought we could do a little charade action. I walked into the room of bathing, picked up the hose, stood directly above the drain, held the hose over my head, and demonstrated how we would be spending the next 5 days showering. When both girls look appalled, I showed them the light at the end of the ‘there really is NO shower’ tunnel. I sat on the toilet, hose in hand, and showed how convenient it could be if you really needed to make number two and wanted to kill two birds with one stone. You could literally shit, shower and shave.
I was delighted, telling Nicole I was not upset at our transition from Tony’s to “The BEST!!!” Not because I enjoy dank basements, actually, I hate basement rooms, I have an obsession with windows, I would live in an all glass house facing the ocean in a perfect world. I also was never really curious about variations of showering in other countries, I find America’s stall version to suffice just fine. What made the situation for me were the memories I knew I would take away as a result of our hasty relocating. You will always remember the concept of a phenomenal getaway, with their complimentary strawberries and champagne and room service, but you tend to lose a sense of precise recollection, namely because there is nothing to talk about. Let me explain. I will always fondly remember the essence of the beauty of the Greek islands, but once I’ve reminisced with significant others of the beauty I encountered during my stay, perhaps using a few adjectives as an attempt to convey what someone else can only imagine, I will know that I have done my best to share what I have seen, but will feel no need to talk on end about it. It was my own personal experience, something I will be able to revisit in my mind, which as a result is unique, it is mine and mine alone. Maybe one day someone will mention the Red Beach and I will say “Oh I’ve been there, it’s magnificent!” And briefly the corners of my mouth will turn up as I momentarily reminisce. Yet when you’ve showered in a room with one foot up on the toilet to shave and spent your nights talking to your roommates about potential evacuation routes in case of a fire that blocks the door (the only real exit), you will forever be able to relive the moments, there are stories to tell, something to talk about, to laugh about. A memory that can be shared, something others were a part of and you can make people a part of despite a physical lack of presence, thus it can never be lost. And any memory that lasts a lifetime were moments well spent.